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the piston rings are gone no good 😮😮 and piston is worn out the best would be 2 replace piston W a set of new piston rings even if U have 2 use after market its better than no parts at all and also I would use a bead cylinder hone 2 rehone the engine cylinder W 😊😊 OMG 7 5 2O24

Just had one of these given to me yesterday.... it's in very good condition

On that recoil shield that was curled up but otherwise good. I have taken a wooden breadboard set the shield on it put an old t shirt over it and with an iron set on high ironed it flat again. As long as you check it you should not have any trouble. This works on many but not all.

Do you know the model of the carb I need one for my home lite.

That was first a pioneer then partner pioneer now poblano maybe once a Mac

That was very helpful. I have partial saws that I wasn't planning to try to restore. I cleaned up several bone yard saws, for parts. The pistons of two looked bad. I dug out my Grandfathers oldest saw that I encouraged to pop off and barely run...more than 20 years ago. I did a lot more work to this saw that I thought. I was looking through my service notes and was surprised to read that I had replaced/swapped the engine out. I do not recall doing this lol I have learned a bit, since then; thank you Leon. This old saw may yet run again, and if I can change the piston and cylinder on one other that is near complete...... I will need to sell a couple of my XL-12's, to afford parts and tools to fix the rest ;-)

Thank you for your help

Man that saw sounds good.

Where should I put the high and low speed needles for a starting point? Also where do you get carb rebuild kits, or complete carbs? Thank you!

do you have any videos on the re-installation?

Bomb proof safe packaging i frickin love it!!!!

Hello, that saw is in great shape, no chain rash on the inside of the clutch cover or crank case. It probably sat broke for awhile then was fixed (new clutch cover/brake assembly). I was considered buying the saw when it was on ebay. I have two 655 bp's neither were badged that way. I have heard all the newer black frame 655 saws were all in bp form and the early gray frames were non bp's unless they were badged a 655 bp. Funny story my starter recoil housing is a gray replacement part on my runner 655. My other 655 bp might be a display piece it is in almost perfect shape. Trying to find a black wrap handle bar was a nightmare so both my handles are gray rubber full wrap handles. Also the air filters are as rare as hens teeth. Thanks for your videos. Ps I collect alot of the big muscle saws mcculloch 125's and mcculloch super 80 through 8200 series and many many others, I have a love for all saws!!

I have seen lighter colored muck in the fuel pump screen, blond to white. Makes me think some of it is from the filters themselves degrading.

I 😊😊 would try a O RING on the gas cap 1ST it may work 😊😊 OMG 6 24 2O24

Your videos are very helpful. I should have watched them two decades ago lol I have an XL-12 with a copper tube sticking out towards the carb.. The in tank hose is off, stiff and a bit short, but the filter looks good; I changed it many years ago. Well I can not feel a barb in the tank with my fingers, to put a new hose on??? Do I really have to remove the clutch, or more, to get at it? Should I remove the copper and run straight hose and grommets? I have been looking at parts diagrams, but the saw only has a SN and XL-12. Most of the parts look ups want a UT(type) number. I was hoping to have some insight before pulling this saw apart further. I am not concerned so much with making the saw original. I want my saws functional first. I only became a "collector" of XL's because I liked how they worked...and told people I liked them...next thing I know......lol

I'm an idiot brother from another mother, I buy just as many chainsaws as you

Did u buy a McCulloch off eBay today?

Got couple those, from my dad when he passed. Fond memories of cutting firewood with pops as a kid in the 70s

Sorry to hear this. I used to trade Echo parts with Jim. Also remember his expertise from the early Arboristsite days, when serious chainsaw building was taught. You might get lucky and find that twin module you need stashed away in his desk drawer.

What's in the stihl case on the floor over there😮

Pretty excited for ya, the way it threw out that oil is the icing on the cake. You mentioned WD40, have you ever heard of Aerokroil?

I got 1 of those need 2 get it fixed bar oil getn in to fuel tank

That’s a beautiful saw.

Great looking saw!

How much is a good cond. Poulan. Pro 655 bp roughly going for in price nowadays.?

That 655 is a beauty. Congratulations,what a buy.

Awesome. The saw from the box from hell runs very well lol. Larry

Lovely saw and sound! Maybe some yellow paint will help! Very nice❤

Bad ass saw, enjoy my friend.

Save a saw for your tomorrow 😊

Noice!

Had to check what a "boost port" is. Some kind of extra or special transfer port in the cylinder. ruclips.net/video/Sx_TJcXiEyY/видео.html

Awesome saw man!

Nice score. I did not know Jim had passed, I still buy a lot of stuff from him or now his wife.

Goodmorning from Alabama Leon. Have a very good one my friend.

Dammm... that's a nice eagel ❤❤ Greetz Kristof

eight bills for a saw dang

Omg Leon That box cracks me up

Yowza, am I the first to comment, nice. Sorry about the big loss; it REALLY sucks loosing those we love. Let's hope his passion is contagious in a new generation. Good luck Mr. Leon.

you think that carb cover is brittle take a look at a yellow translucent transformer toy from the eighties, but don't look too hard or it'll break

I ran into cleaning out the exhaust ports and mufflers long ago, completely untrained. Even recently I cleaned out carbon from a saw I am restoring. Biggest trick is to make sure you have the piston positioned to completely block the port. What I have been doing is using some gas or carb cleaner to soften the carbon, and if possible use a hardwood stick to clean the crap out. Using a metal tool that is softer then the cylinder would work but that would be near as soft as a hardwood stick lol A brass tool would at least prevent scratching the rings and hopefully the piston, more so than steel anyway. I found a very effective and quick way to clean my mufflers. I set the parts on my big vice and carefully heated them with my oxy/fuel torch till just getting red, burning off the carbon. Cool and brush and they are good to go ;-)

Just watched this to NOT learn how to get tension. Thank you for wasting my time

do U have a O RING KIT in the shop or go 2 hardware store or the parts store and get 1 some times U can put a o ring on the gas cap or oil cap it will help or if U caps from a another saw that will work worth a try /U can use some dish soap and make soapy water 💦 😊 it should clean that W out eating the paint 😊😊 OMG 6 2O 2O24

after a saw has set a while it's not uncommon 2 have put a bit of gas in the carb 2 get the saw 2 start and run also take the fuel filter out the gas tank and clean W some carb cleaner will also help I had 2 do this be 4 myself and put gas in then it ran good / the saw sounds good U might can have a custom decal shop make a decal 4 that saw I remember them from when I was a kid many years ago 😊😊 OMG 6 2O 2O24

I am working on an echo 60s someone was going to throw away come to find out it’s a cool old saw. It’s complete only missing the black top cover. Any way I was lucky enough for it to be that easy cleaned the points they were corroded bad and reassembled and gave her 2 pulls and it lit right off… with some stating juice now to clean the fuel system and she will be ready for cutting again. Great video!

I just picked one up at a swap meet, Well anyway idles for a second or 2 no throttle input and stalls out, looks like fuel coming out of the exhaust, any thoughts and where to start ?

that is a old school saw 😊😊 IVE seen 1S older than that I remember from when I was a kid they a gas bowl under the gas so U could turn the gas and off and the gas tank had a plate in it the gas went on 1 side and the oil on the other side and a paper air filter that saw has a old school hard nose bar they cut slow 😮😮 U can change it and put a another bar on that saw wait until U cut wood W it U will it pull your arms 😊😊 they pull like a tractor 🚜 😊 OMG 6 18 2O24

You can easily test a capacitor with an ohm meter setting, just not with a digital multi-meter. I have a multi-meter that has a cap test though, like yours does. I also have an ANALOG multi-meter; one with a mechanical moving needle. You can get really cheap ones that will do. The ohm setting uses a small voltage to test resistance. That tiny voltage is generally enough to test a capacitor/condenser. You just need the correct ohm setting, and you watch the needle, just as you touch your second wire. The needle should jump and quickly return to 0. Switch your wires around and test again. There may be just a tiny more of a jump...a bump really, because you gave a charge to the capacitor from your first test. After doing a few tests with known good condensers, try with some bad ones. You will learn by the needle jump and quick return, or not, if the condenser is good.

Do u sell flywheel puller for these saws, also a manual oiler rebuild??? Thanks leon

Your work on all of the coolest stuff!